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  #101  
Old 03-16-2016, 08:24 AM
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For those of you who removed the BS Gear, how did you do it? The Chilton Manual I have says to loosen the bolt while the timing chain is still connected, but the timing chain blocks half of the bolt when it is on there, so I would never be able to get a socket on it. Also, when the BS Gear is removed, is there any reason to keep the drive gear there??
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  #102  
Old 03-16-2016, 09:44 AM
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what gear are you talking about.
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  #103  
Old 03-16-2016, 10:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xpbr2000 View Post
what gear are you talking about.
Here is a pic of the Balance Shaft Gear (and bolt) being blocked by the timing chain



And here is a pic without the timing chain, you can see the Balance Shaft Gear, and the Drive Gear below it.


Last edited by Neebs; 01-30-2018 at 01:58 PM.
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  #104  
Old 03-16-2016, 11:20 AM
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It's been a long time, but I think you have to wedge something under the shaft and hold it, while breaking it loose.

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  #105  
Old 03-16-2016, 04:25 PM
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yeah I'd leave the drive gear in unless the double roller requires something different. I forgot that there was a gear behind that cam gear
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96 Camaro Cam'd anti-Coupe
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  #106  
Old 03-19-2016, 03:31 PM
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I tried removing the front main seal today, the damn thing shredded instead of coming free. Do you guys have any suggestions?




Last edited by Neebs; 01-30-2018 at 02:09 PM.
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  #107  
Old 03-19-2016, 04:13 PM
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Never mind, I got it free. Had to shove a pry bar in there and stand on it.
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  #108  
Old 03-19-2016, 11:10 PM
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I feel like I can't gain any momentum on this project. I started to install the double roller, but the lower sprocket won't fit! It goes on just a little bit, and then it gets stuck. Did you guys have issues when you put new timing chains in your cars?


Last edited by Neebs; 01-30-2018 at 02:20 PM.
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  #109  
Old 03-20-2016, 02:50 AM
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They make a tool that pushes it back on.

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  #110  
Old 03-21-2016, 11:57 AM
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Damn, another $50 single use tool. I need one of those like I need a hole in the head
Gonna go broke buying tools!
I sent an email to ZZP asking them about it, thinking maybe I just got a bad/warped part. This is what they wrote back...

"Itís common, they are a tight fit. We normally use some anti-seize and file any ruff edges or keyways that look slightly off. Then tap on with a rubber mallet."

Having to file down the sprocket worries me. I don't want to end up ruining it, but I probably don't have another choice. Do you guys think putting anti-seize on there is ok though? I feel like that stuff mixing in with the oil might cause problems.
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