Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: 4l60e Trans problem.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    2
    Rep Power
    8

    Default 4l60e Trans problem.

    First time here and hoping for some help.
    Ok guys have been all over the web trying to find out what is going on with the trans. So I hope someone here can help me out.
    If I am driving down the freeway and let off the gas it feels like the car goes into neutral and coasts. Step on the gas and rpms come up and I am fine. Also if I am coming to a stop I don't feel the trans shifting down and won't shift down if I am manually shifting it down. But if I shift down and step on the gas its in the gear that I put it in. But I have Rev it up to meet the rpms with the speed of the car. I am stuck.
    Other then that the trans shifts fine and and no noises or slippage. And the trans only has 20,000 miles since it rebuild.
    By the way it's a 95 3.8v6.

  2. #2
    xpbr2000's Avatar
    xpbr2000 is offline Freaky Poster LS PLUS Supporting Membership
    Administrator
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Mooreville, MS
    Posts
    11,669
    Rep Power
    100

    Default

    FYI I'm speaking from a very limited knowledge of autos. I personally have only owned 1 or 2 autos. I typically stick with manuals.

    can i ask what you are calling the problem?

    autos are not supposed to stay in OD gear on the highway anyway.

    I do understand that if you shift it into 2 or 1 that it should put drag on the drivetrain. which is the only thing i can see that is a problem.

    It sounds like the trans isn't holding the gear youre in. that could be all to do with the computer or maybe a solenoid.

    96 Camaro Cam'd anti-Coupe
    Dyno'd @ 213 RWHP (NA)
    OperationX thread
    OperationX blog
    FrankForged.com

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    2
    Rep Power
    8

    Default

    Ok the problem is that there is no engine braking. It's like going down the road at 70 mph with a manual transmission and pushing in the clutch.
    And when I manually shift the car down it does nothing until I Rev the engine enough to match the speed I am going.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    99
    Rep Power
    9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by xpbr2000 View Post
    FYI I'm speaking from a very limited knowledge of autos. I personally have only owned 1 or 2 autos. I typically stick with manuals.

    can i ask what you are calling the problem?

    autos are not supposed to stay in OD gear on the highway anyway.

    I do understand that if you shift it into 2 or 1 that it should put drag on the drivetrain. which is the only thing i can see that is a problem.

    It sounds like the trans isn't holding the gear youre in. that could be all to do with the computer or maybe a solenoid.

    Said the exact same on CZ. Honestly, what they are experiencing sounds like NORMAL transmission feeling. I drive an auto daily, and if your cruising and let off the gas YES it basically goes neutral. 4th gear is so low its near neutral. Also, if your manually forcing a 4 to 3rd at that speed and it doesnt do much, TV cable could be the issue, though nothing else mentioned here is an issue.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Renton WA
    Posts
    4,173
    Rep Power
    17

    Default

    If the rpm's are dropping like a manual then having to rev to get them back up? Your trans is going out, went threw that twice on my 94 z28.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Renton WA
    Posts
    4,173
    Rep Power
    17

    Default

    You'll usually lose overdrive first then drive and so on, that's the way mine did anyways both times.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    NEPA
    Posts
    1,486
    Rep Power
    12

    Default

    You can fairly easily rebuild them at home with a couple specialty tools. Autos are fairly complex and its a lot more in depth to trouble shoot than a manual. You have servos, clutches, bands, a sun shell, sun gear, planetary gear, all kinds of stuff can go bad.

    Have you tried changing or looking at the fluid/filter?
    93 Firebird M5 [RIP]
    98 BPM Camaro M5 [RIP]
    98 NBM Camaro Z28 A4 [LS1]

    Mods: slp lid, borla adjustable catback, transgo kit, 3.73s, spohn tubular A arms..

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Location
    Western Idaho
    Posts
    712
    Rep Power
    17

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by SlasherVRGR View Post

    Have you tried changing or looking at the fluid/filter?
    I agree. It sounds like a fluid pressure/flow issue to me. The engine drives the internal pump of the transmission. Sounds like your problem lies somewhere in the pump, maybe. I've had quite a few autos apart (successful rebuilds) but never had a chance at a 4L60E yet. But it sounds like you aren't getting the pressure you need to hold the gear until you rev the engine some.

    Changing the fluid and filter is relatively inexpensive and something you can do at home. Get the pan bolt torque specs and take your time. I have saved a few autos by simply changing the fluid and filter.

    OH! Check the fluid level first!!!! I remember my cousin having a similar issue in a ford. Turns out his fluid was low!

    Park on a level surface, preferably after a short drive. At least let it warm up for about 5 mins. Cycle through PRND32L and back to park. Leave the engine running, set parking brake for safety. Check fluid while engine is running. Should be between the lines on the stick (or inside the hash marks).
    Good luck!

    '94 with '98 front clip
    3.8 L67, BW T5 WC Manual

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Posts
    11
    Rep Power
    8

    Default

    Depending on the mileage, it might be a good idea to change the fluid and filter anyway. Simple task, really. Lift the car, soak all the bolts in your preferred bolt loosener (WD40, PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench). CAREFULLY loosen the bolts. They sieze up over time, and if you snap one you are hyper-screwed unless you know how to drill and tap aluminun for a new bolt. Drain the old fluid off the front (engine side) of the pan, then remove the pan completely. The filter will be easy to see, and just slips off. Clean the ever-lovin' hell off the gasket surface (bothe pan and tranny) so it is nice, clean, and smooth (VERY IMPORTANT TO PREVENT LATER LEAKS!). Set the new filter in place, replace the gasket with new, and set the pan in place with the bolts. Torque the bolts like you do with a tire with the back and forth offest pattern so the gasket seals properly. Check and match the torque specs on your transmission. Add fluid, then start the car and cycle the transmission through all the gears a few time ti warm the transmission fluid up. Check and add and repeat until the transmission fluid reads steady at the " full hot" line after a few checks. Test frive, and check the fluid again just to be sure. Congratulations, you've just saved youself a couple hundred bucks and successfully maintained your transmission!

    I've done this on a few GMs over the years with zero problems. Just make absolutely sure 1. You have no leaks around the transmission pan gasket and 2. You have the proper level of tranny fluid in the transmission before you resume regular driving. Otherwise, very very bad things will happen.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    NEPA
    Posts
    1,486
    Rep Power
    12

    Default

    On a side note, the 4l60e is fine with roughly 1qt too much fluid, at 2qts over you start to find problems. So when in doubt, adding a qt shouldn't hurt.
    93 Firebird M5 [RIP]
    98 BPM Camaro M5 [RIP]
    98 NBM Camaro Z28 A4 [LS1]

    Mods: slp lid, borla adjustable catback, transgo kit, 3.73s, spohn tubular A arms..

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •