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Thread: 3.4L/3400

  1. #501
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    I suppose if I'm planning on painting a bunch of the interior the satin black to match what I had going into the Camaro, I should probably do ALL the trim right? T-top trim, hatch trim etc? I'm thinking of just taping the leather on the door panels and painting them Satin as well. I think it would really set off the interior look, But i'm not sure how much of a PITA doing the dash would be so it's really complete. Thoughts?
    '95 3.4L Camaro-- Top end swap in progress >

  2. #502
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    This is awesome!! I wonder if the leather inserts can be carefully removed for painting...I know the door panels would have to come off. But it would be so choice!

    '94 with '98 front clip
    3.4, BW T5 WC Manual
    205,635 miles
    1995 L67 Swap in the Works...

  3. #503
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    It's been a minute, but we're still messing around with this wiring. Who would have thought taking a 95 3.4L engine and dropping it into a 98 trans am ls1 shell would be so difficult

    Most of it seemed to be plug and play, the only issue visually is the c100 plug from the 3.4L doesn't exactly mate well with the 3 (c100,c101,c105) from the 98. I thought I could make a 3-1 adapter harness using a c100 female plug in and soldering it to the matching wires on the c100,c101,c105 but there doesn't seem to be too many wires that match. I'm just getting to the point where Idk what to do to progress.

    Any ideas?
    '95 3.4L Camaro-- Top end swap in progress >

  4. #504
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    I wish I could help but idk what a c100 connector is. Sorry! What is it?

    '94 with '98 front clip
    3.4, BW T5 WC Manual
    205,635 miles
    1995 L67 Swap in the Works...

  5. #505
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    Any progress is good progress.

    I've matched up everything on the 3.4l harness with wires on the ls1 with the exception of 2. One is for the "Air Pump Relay" and the other is for "Power to Fans/Actuators Fuse #6". Both seem to be related to fans, so I'm not going to stress over that too much until I get the car running. I still have 3 connectors under the passenger side of the dash that also need to be plugged in. I know what they are, just determining what they do and how to get them hooked up. One is the A/c Evap Temp sensor so since we're not running a/c in the car we don't need to be worried about it. The other 2 are the c210 and the c220.

    #C210 - 4 pins
    a- purple - starter solenoid (12v + engages starter)
    b - black/white - ecm ground
    c - orange - ecm battery feed
    d - not used

    This one seems pretty important to figure out as the car won't do anything without those right?

    #C220 - 10 Pins ** letter I is not used
    a - red - alternator feed to ip
    b - tan - oil pressure feed to ip
    c - brn - oil level feed to ip
    d - not used
    e - not used on auto cars
    f - gry - fuel pump motor feed
    g - dk grn/white - vehicle speed signal
    h - not used
    j - dk grn/wht - fuel pump relay control - this goes to fuel pump relay + side
    k - dk grn - coolant temp feed to ip

    This one doesn't seem AS important, but the fuel pump relay control is definitely going to be needed to get it running.

    On top of these few wirings issues, I still have to figure out how I'm going to get the fuel line issue sorted. The ls1 uses and intank regulator that runs at a higher psi than the fuel rail regulator on the 3.4L. Since it's an intank regulator, there's no return line so I need to run one. There's an "emissions line" that runs all the way up to the engine bay, and I could adapt to my fuel rail but I've never dealt with anything regarding fuel lines so it's all greek to me. I know that the emissions line is a 5/16" and the return line is low pressure so the size is fine I'm just not sure how to get it connected to the line coming off my regualtor at the rail. I can remove the in tank regulator and just run a standard 3/8" fuel line where it was hooked up to the bottom of the tank. It's mostly just figuring out how to adapt the existing 5/16" emissions line that's in the engine bay to connect to the rail.

    As it sits right now, these are the big pieces preventing me from turning the key and getting her started up
    '95 3.4L Camaro-- Top end swap in progress >

  6. #506
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    Best thing to do would be to pull what you need from a 3.4 4th gen from a you pull or JY. Like the fuel lines and such.

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  7. #507
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    It's not a matter of pulling what I need, it's a matter of making it so the ls1 bcm and cluster is able to communicate with the 3.4l engine. It's not overly difficult, just time consuming and alot of finicky work for the wiring. The fuel line situation can go 1 of 2 ways. I can find a way to make what's in the car work and adapt it to my needs, or drop the tank and swap over everything. I'm going to go with attempting option 1. I dont enjoy dropping these tanks
    '95 3.4L Camaro-- Top end swap in progress >

  8. #508
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    Alright guys we made some progress! The fuel pressure regulator issue is sorted out. I'm going to use the stock EVAP line and connect it to my regulator as the return line. All I have to do is swap the line from the vent nozzle on the tank to where the return line runs from the Factory T on the Pump Assembly, plug the hole in the T and replace the intank regulator with a hose that goes to the bottom of the tank. I was able to adjust the factory LS1 lines in the engine bay so that they had proper clearance but retained the stock fittings. I can't see this being as issue as the return line is a low pressure line but if anyone else has an opinion I'd love to hear it.

    With that all done and sorted all that's left is the wiring. I have the engine bay wiring all done except for 2 fans that I'll sort out once we get it started. Just trying to make sense of the C210, C220 and C230 connectors under the dash but they mostly match up with some empty wires from the auto trans that was in the bird before I bought it. The C210 is my main issue. It doesn't match anything on my 3.4L c210 connector so I'm not 100% sure which way to proceed. The 95 C210 is only 3 wires, Starter Solenoid 12v Power, ECM ground and ECM power. All very important, but not sure that best way to get it done. I could just cut the connector, solder new wire onto the power and ground, and run one to the passenger side negative ground (in the same place as the junction box on the 95) and then the power all the way over to the drivers side where the positive ternminal is by the fuse box of the trans am. I'm completely lost on the Starter 12v, I'm not sure if that's where the starter is supposed to get it's signal from the ignition or if that's just supposed to run to the a positive terminal in the engine bay as well. Any input?
    '95 3.4L Camaro-- Top end swap in progress >

  9. #509
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    Just when I think I have things sorted it all goes out the window
    The evap line I was planning on using wasn't going to work without having a line just vent under the car and I didn't like the idea of being able to smell gas on hot days. Instead I ran a 3/8" rubber fuel line with a Quick connect and fuel hose clamp all the way to the return line on the pump assembly from the fuel pressure regulator on the rail. I removed the old return line completely and filled it's spot. Worked out well and I'm much more confident in it this way than the initial plan.

    We have some gremlins to work out in the electrical side of things. I found a great checklist of what is absolutely needed in order to get it to run.
    ***Here are the essential MINIMUMS you need to get it running****************

    1. C210 pin C, ORANGE - battery feed to PCM, 10 amp fused (done)

    2. 3 eye-let connectors in harness near coil/module connector, engine block (ground), also 2 grounds near starter (black/white stripe)- the shop claimed to have done all of these, but I feel like I need to double check all 3 grounds are hooked up.

    3. C100 pin F, BRN - key 12v+ feed to EVAP, EGR solenoids, book shows 10amp fused - ONLY NEEDED FOR EMISSIONS ( this whole system has been removed)

    4. C230 pin G, PINK - key 12v+ feed to PCM

    5. C100 pin A, PINK - key 12v+ feed to Injectors 2,4,6,8 7.5amp These I'm unsure of how to address. On the ls1 harness, Pin A matches and provides power to the injectors, but there's no other injector wires on any of the ls1 connectors.
    C100 pin K, PINK - key 12v+ feed to Injectors 1,3,5,7 7.5amp

    6. C100 pin G, PINK - key 12v+ feed to Coil, Ignition Module 10 amp (done)

    7. C220 pin J, Dk Green/White - fuel pump relay control 12v+ connect to one side of relay coil, other side to ground, then wire up your fuel pump with say 15 amp fuse. (On the ls1 side of things the this is handled on a different connector. I think the best way to address this is to cut the wire before the connector and just solder on a new length that reaches the c220 in the interior)

    8. C230 pin E, dk blue - fuel enable signal - hack stock module or build a unit to defeat it, see my website www.lt1swap.com for info, or have chip modified to delete this option. (done)

    All in all I think we're still making some progress slowly and any progress at this point is good progress!
    '95 3.4L Camaro-- Top end swap in progress >

  10. #510
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    i know you are fixing it another way but, what about using a 3.4 fuel pump assembly. it should mount in the same place shouldn't it? unless GM was being difficult and purposely making it so they don't bolts on the same way.

    96 Camaro Cam'd anti-Coupe
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